Smokeless fire. The smoke of the fire unmasks your

Author: Yuriy Fedorovich Kolesnikov, thermal power engineer

The history of mankind began with the mastery of fire. Before that there was the biological evolution of anthropoids, just as helpless before the forces of nature as other animals. The ability to make a fire with your own hands and maintain it is still necessary today. A fire can be a savior in an extreme situation, a useful assistant in the household and on a hike; finally, simply an attractive spectacle that perfectly relieves the stress of civilized life. In the latter capacity - even a ritual attribute of ancient immodest pagan rites.

Bonfires for survival, camping and ritual cooking

Of particular note is the economic role of the fire. In private housing, waste fuel is constantly discovered, and with current energy prices, it would be wise to use it profitably. Quite a few stoves using waste fuel (wood waste, solid waste, used motor oil) have been developed, but in individual households its sources are unstable. Properly equipping a fire pit in a dacha or garden plot (see below) is much simpler and cheaper than making the simplest sawdust or waste stove, but it will allow you to burn waste wood fuel, albeit not as efficiently, but effectively. Or just sit by the fire in the evening. In addition, lighting the simplest summer stove for 200 bricks requires about 30-40 minutes, and cooking over a fire can begin 5-10 minutes after it is lit. Saving time in the summer, when there is more than enough hassle, also means a lot.

Safety precautions

A fire certainly cannot be lit in the places indicated in the figure, and in residential buildings of similar flammability; e.g. on a dry lawn, or on litter in the garden.

The very fact of lighting a fire outdoors in absolutely prohibited places may entail civil and criminal liability. A fireplace in a country house or in a private household should be at least 4 m away from trees and wooden buildings, and it should be located on the leeward side. For trees, not only the immediate danger of fire is significant, but also crown burn, which can destroy the plant. It is possible to make fires that potentially generate strong sparks (see below) in windy weather not in a specially equipped fireplace at a distance of at least 12-15 m from flammable objects, and in winds stronger than 6 m/s (fresh wind, tree branches swaying) it is generally not possible .

Set up a fire pit as shown in Fig. on the right is also dangerous. A fire pit during a camping trip and a temporary one in inhabited places is equipped with a trail. way:

Fire pit built in violation of safety rules

• Sod or litter is removed within a radius of at least 1.2 m from the boundaries of the future fire pit. By default, a circle with a diameter of 3-3.5 m is cleared down to the ground. It is impossible to make a fire on deciduous or coniferous semi-ripened litter, even if the moisture is squeezed out of it! The same as on soil oversaturated with manure, droppings or compost, for example, in a farm yard. It dries out from the heat, smolders - and a most dangerous ground fire spreads, which is no easier to extinguish in the area than in the taiga;
• The litter from the fire pit is evenly thrown away to the sides. If the fire pit is on turf, the removed turf is laid out with grass down in a roller around the outside perimeter of the fire pit;
• Along the perimeter of the fire pit, a trench is dug from the inside using a spade bayonet (20-30 cm wide or deep);
• The excavated soil is poured evenly around the outside perimeter of the site.

A burnt-out fire is doused with water, or carefully trampled, or extinguished with a non-flammable felt. The extinguished fire is covered with earth or covered with removed turf and roots to the ashes. It is permissible to leave the fire no earlier than 30-40 minutes after the last signs of combustion have disappeared (the buried fire has cooled down). Avoiding even a barely smoking fire in the forest or in nature in general is grounds for criminal prosecution, even if the forest (steppe, meadow) fire has not started!

Signal fire in the rain

If the group is stuck in the wilderness during the heavy rainy season, a canopy should be built over the fire.

To do this, you can build a tripod by tying sticks with wire at the top and spreading the lower ends of the sticks to the sides. At the middle of the height of the structure, build a flooring, tying it to the “legs” of the structure. Lay a hut on this flooring, and tie spruce branches or branches with leaves to the top of the structure in the form of a cone-shaped roof.

Such a roof will protect the prepared fire from getting wet, and when ignited, it will emit white smoke. If an open flame is required instead of smoke, the roof can be removed when the fire flares up.

This design is good if vegetation interferes with the visibility of the fire. By raising the fire above the ground using a tripod, firstly, you can eliminate the influence of grass vegetation on the visibility of the fire, and secondly, you can increase the distance from which the fire will be visible from the surface of the earth or sea, because the visibility distance of objects at sea directly depends on height of the object: the higher the object is located, the greater the distance it can be seen.

You can even make a fire in a swamp by building the platform already described above:

Types of fires

To properly set up a fire pit, fire pit, or fire pit with your own hands, you need to know what kind of fire would be best to build in the given circumstances. In general, fires are divided into:

1. Heat - culinary, household and heating.
2. Light – signal night and decorative.
3. Smoke - signal daylight and smoke smoke from blood-sucking insects.

There are hundreds, if not thousands, of types of fires that combine these functions to one degree or another. The most common of them are shown in Fig.

Main types of fires

Hut

This is mainly a light decorative fire. Pioneer fires in the old days were made with a hut; Many ritual fires are also made in huts. A fire hut is suitable for quick cooking if it is possible to hang the cooking utensils high enough, because gives a strong compact stream of hot air. The efficiency of a hut fire is very low even for a fire; the wood in it burns out quickly. Also, a hut fire, if not built in the hearth (see below), can spark strongly even in the absence of wind. On damp wood it does not burn or goes out without regular fanning. Ignition is from the bottom from the inside, kindling (see below) is placed in the fire in advance. It is easily extinguished if you let the wood burn out completely. A properly laid out fire hut requires virtually no supervision, because when it burns out, it settles into a cone.

Well

Bonfire-pyramid

In all its properties it is similar to a hut fire, but has a higher efficiency and can be built on raw wood. It can also, using dry wood, serve as an economic and technological one: the temperature in the log house reaches 1200-1300 degrees. A type of fire-well, the fire-pyramid (see figure on the right) is a good, economical cooking fire, because combustion in it is predominantly superficial. The tiers of the fire-pyramid, except for the ground one, are laid out entirely; ignite it at the top. It is difficult to extinguish a pyramid fire, so you need to extinguish it carefully and carefully.

Star

This is a slow burning, dry wood fired, very economical cooking fire; partly decorative. When diluted in a bowl (see below), it requires almost no supervision. When breeding on a plane, supervision (moving firewood) is necessary on a regular basis. It does not spark in the wind, is easily extinguished and can be lit on the same unburned firewood, therefore it is most suitable for repeated use in an unequipped camp site (a person on duty must remain in the camp, or the firewood for lighting will need to be dug up again). It is unsuitable as a smoker and goes out.

Hunting

This fire begins the family of so-called. taiga fires. Firewood for a hunting fire is not necessarily laid out in perpendicular layers, it can be laid out obliquely. Unlike a star fire, a hunting fire can be lit using damp wood of different sizes and, if you throw damp grass or leaves on the fire, use it as a smoker. The hunting fire burns for up to 3-4 hours without sparking. The kindling is on top, like a pyramid fire; You also need to carefully extinguish a hunting fire.

Smoker

Single-layer (single-tier) hunting fire, specifically insect smoke; Not suitable for cooking or heating. A smoker made of 3-4 damp logs, the thickness of a hand or less, covered with grass, can smolder unattended all autumn night, if the ends of the logs are not closed - from there there is an air flow to the fire. It does not spark, does not scatter coals, so it is of little danger in the forest, but you need to carefully extinguish the smoker, like any smoldering fire (pyramid, hunting fire). Kindling - from above.

Nodya

This fire is also called a night fire, because Nodya, unattended, can heat and drive away bloodsuckers for up to 12-14 hours. Nodya does not spark, but drops coals, so the fire pit under it must be cleared to the sides of flammable materials for at least the length of the logs (1.5-2 m). Lay out the node perpendicular to the wind; overnight accommodation under a canopy is arranged on the leeward side. It is the most difficult thing to completely extinguish a node; The only reliable way is to pour plenty of water (or cover it with snow) and cover it with earth to the thickness of the log. Nodya is suitable for spending the night in the fall or at slightly sub-zero temperatures, but it will not save you in the fierce winter in the taiga.

A typical node is laid out from 3 even, slightly damp logs, one foot thick or more. It is difficult to find or prepare fuel for a node even in the virgin taiga, so a node is often built from 2 logs between branches stuck into the ground (on the left in the figure), but such a node is much more dangerous: suddenly the wind changes and blows along the logs, the fire will flare up to strong flame, one of the supports may burn out, and then the flaming log will roll far away onto the flammable bedding or fall on the sleeping person. The nodya is ignited from the middle (in the center in the figure); it requires specially prepared kindling and some experience.

Bonfire of Nodya

Note: Without paper, straw and flammable liquid, a fire is lit with incendiary sticks made of resinous wood, see figure:

For information on kindling for a fire using improvised means away from populated areas, see also the video below:

Video: types of kindling for a fire

Cannon and bombnak

Small hunting fire-bomnak

Surviving in the forest in winter is not a comfortable rest in a comfortable home, and it is generally impossible to fall asleep in the open air in the cold; you may not wake up. Therefore, if the cold has set in, the log is laid out with a cannon downwind (in the top picture on the right), the overnight stay is arranged opposite the vent (where the logs are raised), and the fire is lit from below. Now you will have to somehow sleep through the night, moving the logs every 1.5-2 hours, but there will be much more heat and the logs can be taken from dead wood, crooked, of different sizes. The Nodya-gun is actually an Evenki bomnak fire - the most perfect of the taiga fires, with which an experienced, hardy person can spend the night in the taiga in 40-degree frost. Bomnak can be grown small in fairly warm seasons (see picture on the right). A small bomnak is a universal camp fire: it heats well, consuming little fuel, drives away midges with smoke, and a pot of water placed at the vent boils in 10-20 minutes. How to build and maintain a traditional Evenki bomnak fire, see next. video guide:

Video: Evenki bomnak for spending the night in the taiga

https://youtu.be/dnQx0IVPsrw

Special fires

About special-purpose fires, you need to know first of all how to make a fire - the signal pyramid, on the left in Fig. To signal at night, the frame of the signal pyramid is covered with dried wood (ignition is from the inside from the platform). To give a signal during the day, the flammable frame is hung with branches with damp leaves, damp grass, reeds, etc. A column of smoke or fire with sparks from a fire - a signal pyramid from a search aircraft/helicopter flying at an altitude of 1-1.5 km, in clear weather is visible at a distance of up to 120-150 km (!).

Signal, Polynesian and invisible (robber) fires

Polynesian

The Polynesian fire (in the center in the figure) has a different specificity - it is economical, like a pyrolysis oven. As you know, the islands of Oceania are always warm, but there are practically no natural resources, incl. fuel. And the Polynesian fire acts like a pyrolysis furnace: the wood burns only enough to ensure thermal decomposition of the wood, and the main flow of heat comes from the pyrolysis gases burning out above the mouth of the fire. The Polynesian fire is exclusively a culinary fire: it does not smoke, does not spark, does not throw coals, and does not heat to the sides. In the forest, it is even less dangerous than a smoker. It is easily extinguished by closing the vent: the Polynesians made such fires during their voyages on pirogues in palm fiber bags with sand. They drowned it with caught driftwood. See, for example, Te Rangi Hiroa (Peter Buck) "Mariners of the Sunrise". This is a thorough scientific, solidly reasoned work.

Robber

The Russian version of the pyrolysis fire is the invisible robber, on the right in the top figure. It requires some digging with tools, but you can place cooking utensils on the fire pit. The robber's fire has long been used by the military; Special forces are still trained to breed it.

Note: it is difficult to say which pyrolysis fire became the prototype of the rocket stove, but it operates on the same principle.

Fire from a barrel

Fire pit made from a barrel

A pyrolysis fire pit can be made from a barrel by digging it in approx. half into the ground so that it doesn’t quickly burn out and the fire doesn’t immediately go deeper. This version of a fire pit uses surface combustion that is very economical and not picky about fuel quality, so a barrel fire is perfect for burning waste without smoke and with minimal emissions of greenhouse gases. Under one condition: the previous load must burn completely before the next one, otherwise the fire will smoke heavily and the fuel will not burn completely.

Wooden Primus

This is what the fire is called: an Indian or Finnish candle. It is also economical, but requires high-quality wood fuel, and is more dangerous because drops coals. To light an Indian candle, you need to split a piece of log or saw it partially (on the left in the figure) and set it on fire in the center, along the core of the wood. The Aborigines, American and Lappish, looked for dry, split pieces for candle fires: the number and location of the splits/cuts do not play a big role, as long as the ignition was from the core.

Bonfire Indian or Finnish candle (wooden primus stove)

A wooden primus fire produces a strong, sometimes humming flame, on which the water in the dishes boils as quickly as on a gas stove (in the center and on the right). The log is as thick as a foot and approx. long. 0.5 m is enough to cook lunch for 3-4 people or heat boiled water.

A wooden primus can also be made from a dry, split stump, which will then burn down with its roots, but this should never be done in the forest, due to the danger of the same creeping fire. However, on your own site in this way it is permissible to get rid of old stumps that interfere with the development without uprooting, if their location meets the fire safety requirements, see above. To make the burned stump burn faster and deeper, you can pour 1/4-1/3 (no more!) of a glass of waste or vegetable oil onto it before igniting.

Lighting a fire quickly and easily

PHOTO SHUTTERSTOCK
It’s a long way from civilization, there’s a wet or snow-covered forest all around that is indifferent to your problems, there are many kilometers of floods, and there’s night ahead with possible frosts.

You need to light a fire to heat and dry clothes and shoes.

This is not easy to do after heavy rains, when even the thin branches of coniferous trees stubbornly refuse to flare up.

The scenario is known: frozen, trembling hands do not obey, movements are inhibited - with hypothermia (hypothermia), fine motor skills of the hands are impaired.

Sudden changes in blood pressure levels are also possible.

A hot fire is vital in this case.

In some “training” videos on the Internet, extreme situations always “happen” during daylight hours; There is a forest with dead trees all around, the survival instructors are cheerful, energetic and cheerful, with large knives they can easily split and plan small trees, without fear of injuring their hands.

When watching such stories, Stanislavsky comes to mind: “I don’t believe it.” It would be interesting to see the actions of the main character, who finds himself in the cold season, in bad weather, on a small island, where there are only a few dead trees.

There are green willow thickets around and maybe a little alder and birch, and the only surviving equipment is the contents of the pockets of wet clothes and a life jacket.

Or another option: a tired and chilled man under the wet snowfall at dusk approaches the place where the treasured hut or old lumberjack’s trailer stood, hoping to warm up and spend the night.

The beam of a pocket flashlight searches the forest, and then there is a surprise: instead of housing, there is a pile of charred ruins dusted with snow. Other aggravating circumstances are also possible: hypertensive crisis, trauma, stress...

What needs to be done to quickly light a fire in a wet forest? First of all, calm down and remember that inside the apparently wet branches of dead trees there is dry wood.

Sawing, splitting tree trunks and branches, preparing as many dry chips and shavings as possible for ignition is not an easy task.

Therefore, it is important during a long hike to have with you not only a hunting knife, but also an ax or a saw, or better yet, a knife, an ax, and a saw.

Axes with a short ax (20–25 cm) are compactly placed in a backpack or on a belt, but they are intended primarily for kitchen work or leisurely hewing (for example, for making various artistic products).

Let me emphasize: with skillful hands. Otherwise, you can easily injure yourself and make the situation worse. A folding saw or a small hacksaw is lighter and safer, but an ax with a half-meter grippy ax is still a more versatile tool.

The acceptable length of an ax has long been an arshin (step), about 70 cm, and the minimum is half an arshin. It is better not to take advertised special “survival knives” on a hike. An expensive thing that chops wood like a shovel; digs the ground like an ax; cuts wood like a crowbar!

In addition to firewood, you will, of course, need matches or a lighter, ignition equipment: a piece of birch bark, plexiglass or other flammable material. You can use a flare (pyrotechnic torch) or a bottle of gasoline to light a fire - effective and well-known means, but they are not always at hand.

Birch is a reliable source of birch bark and spark-free firewood, but they do not grow everywhere. Possible extreme events can and should be foreseen.

To reliably light a fire in wet weather, it is better to prepare simple, compact, hermetically sealed ignition supplies in advance and put them in your backpack, and when going on a boat trip, in the pocket of your jacket or life jacket.

BERESTA

The easiest way to do the following is to collect birch bark from a clearing or logging site, roll it into rolls of different sizes, tie them together with wire, and dry them. If you have time and desire, dip the rolls in melted paraffin - it won’t get any worse.

Then seal it tightly or wrap it tightly in several layers of stretch film. Inside the rolls you can put a lighter or a dozen matches rubbed with wax or paraffin. It is better, of course, to use special ones, “Hunting”, wind- and moisture-resistant.

Add a couple of graters cut from a matchbox. Option: use a bright inflatable balloon (highly visible in the dark) or a sealed finger from a rubber glove as a sealed package.

In an extreme situation, the packaging will not have to be untied, but cut or torn with teeth. The result is that you have a small and easy-to-carry item for your pocket and purse that can make starting a fire much easier.

CANDLE-TABLET AND DRY FUEL

Each of these items is used for ignition separately, but they can be used simultaneously, as a set, to enhance the effect. Light a candle, use dry fuel, and place it on the flame.

The fuel will absorb the molten paraffin and turn into a kind of wick. Burning time is several minutes.

FLAMMABLE MIXTURE FOR IGNITION

Take a small plastic bottle, preferably flat or square, with a volume of about 100 ml. It is advisable to use PET bottles. They are durable, have a wide neck and a good screw cap.

Place several pieces of a cut bicycle tube about 10 cm long into the bottle. Tie wires to them with a separate loop of such a size that they do not fall to the bottom, but “hold” tightly to the walls of the neck.

Pour store-bought lighter fluid, lighter gasoline, kerosene, alcohol, or vegetable oil into the bottle. Add a spoon or two of crushed paraffin. Another option: place three or four thin rubber (nitrile) gloves into the flammable liquid.

Make a wide ring (about 3 cm) from a piece of bicycle tube and put it on the bottle. Under the ring, insert a sealed mini bag (see above) with a few emergency matches.

USAGE

Unscrew the plug, use a twig or other handy object to hook the wire loop and pull out the rubber, place it in the prepared firewood, which you carefully and sparingly pour over and coat with flammable liquid.

It is better to lay wet firewood in a hut and pour it on at the base. It is known that the upper part of the flame - the tongues - has the highest combustion temperature; the flaring fire will engulf the entire hut and dry out the stacked firewood. Use a match to light the pieces of bicycle tube and firewood. The rubber burns well and for quite a long time.

In stock you have the remains of a flammable mixture, the bottle itself with a cap, as well as the rubber ring is also flammable material. Instead of rubber, you can use birch bark ribbons and sunflower oil.

It is not environmentally friendly to burn rubber and plastic in the forest, the combustion products are toxic (inhale carefully when igniting!), but if you find yourself in emergency circumstances...

Do not forget that during search and evacuation operations, rescuers will have to “burn” hundreds of liters of fuel, so you need to plan your trip in such a way that the likelihood of using any EAS (emergency reserve) is minimal.

JAR WITH PARAFFIN AND DRY FUEL

Take a flat tin can with a lid. Use pliers and sandpaper to remove burrs. Pour two or three crushed paraffin candles into a jar. Melt the paraffin over low heat. Dip a couple of strips of birch bark or soft cardboard into it for ignition.

The frozen paraffin should occupy about 3/4 of the volume of the jar. After the paraffin has cooled, put several tablets of dry fuel or a package of these tablets (3-4 pieces) from the “Individual Diet” dry ration into the jar.

Place a couple of strips of thin plexiglass, birch bark or paraffin cardboard into the jar. Also include a sealed mini-bag for ignition (see above) and a piece of copper or soft millimeter wire about 20 cm long.

If you have space, place a packaged small lighter in the jar. Place the jar with the lid pressed with tape in a plastic bag or wrap it in stretch film.

Usage. Unpack the jar, bend the lid, light the dry fuel tablets and put them in paraffin, and the jar under the firewood laid in the hut. The jar can be tied with wire to a peg stuck in the wet ground.

With the flame of a few tablets of dry fuel you can dry and light a hut made of wet wood. Pure paraffin does not burn like a candle without a wick, but in its molten form it is well drawn into an open fire and supports the combustion of other substances and objects.

Paraffin-soaked cotton pads are a well-known fire starter. You can put burning spruce and pine cones, birch bark, twigs, pieces of fabric, coals from a fire and shavings in paraffin.

Be careful when starting a fire. Any flammable liquid cannot be splashed into the fire: the flame will instantly “fly” into your bottle along the stream, and burns are guaranteed. You cannot make a fire in peat bogs: the peat can catch fire and will burn for many months, which will lead to forest fires.

FOR LOVERS HOT

The industry could be encouraged to develop and expand its range of fire lighting products.

1. A set of two small thermite pyrotechnic torches (fires) in the form of 20x120 mm cylinders. It would be good if the torch could be easily divided into two halves. The package should also contain a dozen wind- and moisture-resistant matches. The fire should successfully ignite a small dense pile of wet branches as thick as a finger.

2. Hermetically packed paraffin (a rectangular tin can) with the addition of other substances that enhance combustion, such as magnesium, aluminum, etc. The fire must withstand gusts of wind and light splashes of rain.

3. Pyrotechnic paste (pyrotechnic paste) in a high-strength plastic tube. Directions for use: coat wet branches with toothpaste like a toothbrush, quickly rub the branches against each other and set them on fire. The pyroplaste should burn in the wind, releasing a large amount of heat.

By analogy with two-color toothpaste, pyropaste can be made into two components: a flammable substance and an oxidizing agent. Mixing them when squeezing them out of the tube will increase the combustion temperature and make the fire stable in bad weather - strong wind, rain, blizzards.

Ordinary rubber glue spread on a branch burns, but it does not have enough temperature for stable combustion and ignition of wood - more active substances are needed.

The offered ignition means are ergonomic and effective in adverse weather conditions.

Vladimir Tetera August 16, 2020 at 12:05

Bonfire at the dacha

A place for a fire in a country house can be equipped as a camp fire, but it is better to make a country fire in a fireproof hearth - a shell made of a small round steel vessel; An unusable car wheel rim is perfect. A country fire pit in a shell can be either dug into the ground or above ground in a decorative design, left and center in Fig. In both cases, the spreading of coals is eliminated, sparking develops less, and therefore the fire danger is much reduced. On the hearth-shell, you can build a small fire-hut or well without additional precautions to the above.

Country fire pits

A diagram of the installation of a stationary country fire pit is shown on the right in Fig. The backfill of the ring trench is a decorative anti-heaving cushion; it must be compacted and sprinkled with sand, as when constructing a garden path. The second thermal deformation cushion made of gravel 10-15 cm thick is located between the shell and the design of the hearth (see sidebar). In this design, the design of the hearth can be done in any way from ordinary non-combustible building materials.

In the bowl

Particularly favorable air flow conditions for a safe culinary and decorative fire are created by lighting it in a smoothly curved flat thicket. The hut fire in the bowl does not spark even in a fairly strong wind, and the logs of the star fire hardly need to be pushed.

Decorative fires in bowls

Cast iron fire pits are available for sale, ranging from simple to expensive. In some countries, decorative fires in bowls are allowed to be built on a fireproof substrate among wooden objects (items 1-3 in the figure), but not in wooden buildings. You can make a beautiful fire bowl with your own hands from an unusable basin (item 4) painted with heat-resistant enamel; Approx. is poured into the bottom of the dish (possibly leaky). 10 cm of gravel or expanded clay, and sand on top.

The bowl of the cooking fire should be placed from brick in the ground, pos. 5. Pay attention to the cobblestone made of granite or other dense heat-intensive stone in the center: it expands the flow of rising air and reduces its temperature from 600-700 to 350-400 degrees. On such a fire you can fry meat and poultry carcasses. For large carcasses or preparing a dinner of 3-4 dishes at once, the bowl should be trough-shaped, pos. 6. In the latter case, i.e. For cooking in a pot, it is not necessary to place stones in the hearth.

From fire to oven

Another way to regulate the air flow to the fire is to uniformly flow it through the holes in the shell. Bonfires made from poor fuel in “ventilated” hearths (item 1 in the figure) produce a spectacular flame, but this is not just a matter of decorativeness. For example, if you fold the shell of a fire with air flow onto a dry one made of bricks placed sticking out, fastened with wire, then the firewood thrown in bulk (ignition - flammable fire) will very quickly burn down to coals, which will smolder for a long time, releasing even, strong heat. This is already an excellent barbecue. If such a hearth is built on (possibly temporarily, also on a dry surface) with another 2-3 rows of bricks, you will get something like a tandoor. You can’t bake flatbreads in it, but shish kebab and kebab will turn out excellent. And pilaf, if you hang a cauldron in the crater.

Fire pits with adjustable air flow

Another way to regulate the air flow to the fire is to build a fireplace with a primitive ash pan, which, together with wind protection from the shell, makes the fire much more economical. In essence, a fire with a ash pit is almost like a barbecue oven, pos. 2. Such a fire pit for a pot/cauldron can be quickly put together from scrap materials (item 3), or made from the same car disk (item 4) - for cooking you will need much less low-quality fuel, even small twigs and straw.

Problems due to smoky, ineffective fires

Sitting around a fire, whether at a picnic or a party, is an age-old pastime with a big downside - the smoke and soot that is released into the air and then into our lungs. A fire can also be quite inefficient when it comes to the amount of fuel that is burned and the amount of energy that is "harvested" for warmth or cooking. And while it's only a preventable problem in the developed world, about 2.9 billion people worldwide rely on dirty cooking fuels, and smoke and soot from open cooking fires and stoves are a huge contributor to indoor air pollution, a leading cause deaths around the globe, right behind heart disease, lung disease and respiratory infections.

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